London Fashion Week 
Redefining Femininity: How London Fashion Week Explored Identity, Power and Discovery.
written by Libby Sturgess
Femininity was a stand-out theme that weaved its way through this seasons fashion week. We saw various collections which highlighted the delicate beauty of womanhood as well as those which shifted their focus towards rebellion, empowerment and the ongoing struggles that we face as women.
Sinead Gorey’s presentation perfectly captured what it means to be a party girl. Wearing booty shorts, shades and tassels, the models danced on moss covered stage. In contrast with a pink back drop and warm lighting, the set created the perfect illusion of a hedonistic festival experience. No look felt similar to another which highlighted a strong sense of individuality and celebration of self.
With luxury pieces splashed in mud, Gorey’s collection celebrates femininity in a non-typical way, encouraging women to rebel and attain freedom. The message intended through this collection feels very Charli XCX and brat summer coded, promoting clubbing culture and this trendy party-girl lifestyle.
The collection involved an array of bold colours and patterns, particularly polka dots and stripes, confirming the re-invention of last seasons trends to continue over to the next.
Lucila Safdie showcased an exploration of girlhood with her presentation titled
Tristesse Imperiale. Her collection draws inspiration from the story of the Romanov sisters and their doomed adolescence.
Safdie created a set to represent what seems like a teenage girl’s bedroom, with her collection scattered around messily, symbolising complications around self- discovery and acceptance. With backcombed hair and sad, tired doll faces the models were staged in the room, performing what can only be described as rituals of femininity.
By taking inspiration from the Romanov sisters’ tragedy and portraying this through a modern-day lens, Safdie creates the image that dooming experiences of girlhood will continue to repeat themselves throughout history.
To hone in on the collection itself, Safdie’s designs are defined by frilly micro shorts, pearls and dramatic pops of colour. However, her cleaver incorporation of jet black seems to create a thought-provoking contrast.
Yuhan Wang’s SS26 collection Armor of Roses also continued the conversations of girlhood. Inspired by the surreal and shifting realities depicted in David Lynch’s Mulholland Drive, the collection is characterised by its eclectic designs, textures and patterns.
Wang’s collection can only be described as dreamlike. The white lace and pastels and florals hint towards delicate femininity while the unique silhouettes and layering create a sense of uncertainty, perhaps nodding towards the ambiguous line between the real experiences of navigating as a women and the way we are expected to present our femininity. The juxtaposition of the armour and lace frills also comments on the strength of women and the violence, from the world, which we fight to overcome.
Being recognised for her analysis of femininity, it comes as no surprise that Simone Rocha delivered a breath-taking collection, through which she explored the stages of girlhood.
Within her SS26 collection, Rocha explores the transition between girlhood to womanhood by incorporating playful florals alongside bold satin gowns. The motif florals and silks and satins communicates the vulnerability and softness of femininity that she often explores.
With shrugged shoulders and crossed arms, the models cleverly used gestures to convey a sense of insecurity. Like in Safdie’s presentation, the models had messy hair and separated makeup, further hinting at this sense of unknowing and discomfort.
Ultimately, London Fashion Week sparked conversation where designers dared to stretch boundaries of what femininity means today, offering visions that were personal, political and powerful.
photos by @londonfashionweek & @deborahionaphotography