With autumn just around the corner, the fashion industry is gearing up for another seasonal release. 

words by Sophie Maskell

Military jackets 

Used as a form of micro-patriotism during tense geopolitical times, military-style jackets saw a rise in popularity recently, making their comeback after an almost twenty year hiatus (originally popularised by Kate Moss in 2005). Coincidentally, this ‘trend’ aligns with the USA’s (and UK’s) increased military presence in a number of global conflicts. While many of those participating in the trend may be unaware of the messaging they are promoting, big fashion companies are certainly not. Fast fashion brands capitalised on the 2000s nostalgia incredibly successfully, mass-producing poor quality garments that accurately mimic their vintage counterparts. 

At a time of intense geopolitical shift in international powers, fashion is weaponised as a form of cultural control. 

The Westernisation of Asian clothing

Another trend pushed by fast fashion companies: creating garments based on traditional Asian clothing, without acknowledging their cultural heritage. For example, the ‘skinny scarf’ that closely resembles a dupatta but is labelled (and trends) as a Scandinavian scarf. 

Step into any ZARA store and you’ll see numerous tops and dresses blatantly copying Chinese cultural garments. While fashion is always inspired by a number of outside sources, the issue lies in the lack of acknowledgement and ZARA’s poor treatment of their factory workers (mostly based in Asia). As the USA and China metaphorically ‘fight’ to be the dominant financial and political global power, this appropriation could be viewed as an attempt to colonise traditional Asian fashion. 

As seen through the internet’s obsession with the Adidas Chinese New Year jackets, the western world can’t get enough of Asian, and particularly Chinese, fashion. Due to internet globalisation, the merging of cultures can always be expected to an extent, but this rapid obsession and almost fetishisation can feel uncomfortable. Most importantly, the culture and history of garments and accessories should always be considered before presenting them as the next trend. 

Nostalgia dressing 

Dressing for your childhood self appears to be here to stay. Whether this is evoking the 2000s (or y2k) style, or stepping back further to the 80s/90s, Gen Z in particular are still focusing on nostalgia dressing. For some, this is due to their favourite celebrities (Zara Larsson, Addison Rae) utilising the bright y2k aesthetic as part of their public personas. For others, dressing for a different time period gives a sense of comfort or relief from the harsh realities of modern life. 

As many modern trends are, in fact, micro trends, the idea of dressing in the style of an entire decade is incredibly appealing. It allows individuals to feel that they have developed their own sense of style and identity, outside of social media. In some ways, fashion can be used to create a sense of escapism, which appears to be a common thread running through the next season. 

Burgundy, of course 

This wouldn’t be an autumn trend prediction without mentioning burgundy. Repackaged by brands every year, the colour is always a major part of A/W fashion. Synonymous with traditional autumn colours, this trend will be particularly widespread in Europe this year, after the intense (and heatwave filled) summer. It provides a visual escape from the summer palette, in particular the oversaturation of bright teals and pinks. Furthermore, it romanticises the gloomier and darker weather. 

The knit jumper 

Always an A/W staple, the knit jumper has been associated with other autumn trends nearly every year (Gilmore Girls, primarily). A symbol of warmth, safety  and security, it becomes a popular and practical fashion statement at a tumultuous political time. Again, it follows the escapism theme and harks back to what was, for many of us, a time we felt more secure. 

Able to fit into any colour palette and aesthetic, the knit jumper is one of those classic items that arguably isn’t a trend: it will always be around.